No, not Chicken Wings, but Chicken Wing – singular. Meat lovers and Masterchef (and soon to be MKR!) aficionados alike were elated when Colin Fassnidge of Four in Hand, Paddington fame announced that he was opening a new restaurant, 4Fourteen, in Surry Hills earlier this year. Known for nose to tail signature dishes such as pigs ear schnitzel and being responsible for arguably the best bar food menu in Sydney, Dublin-born Fassnidge has made a solid name for himself in Sydney’s East over the past few years. One of his many redeeming features is the fact that he is not just the theoretical face of his restaurants but can actually be seen playing a hands-on role in his kitchens, particularly in new restaurant 4Fourteen where guests can sit up around the kitchen and watch Fassnidge and his team work their magic.
The cocktail list at 4Fourteen contains a range of offerings from traditional martinis to more inventive drinks (in both name and ingredients) like the Avant Another (white peach, orange, aperol, vodka). Wines are available not only by the glass but also in 375ml carafes, which I particularly like when a restaurant has a good cocktail menu as it allows you indulge in both wine and cocktails without necessarily overdoing it on the alcohol (or cost).
The food menu is originally divided into four sections: Meat, Fish, Salads & Starches and Pastry, with each section ordered in terms of dish size. Some of Fassnidge’s well known pork dishes from Four in Hand’s menu such as roast suckling pig and whole crumbed pigs tail feature in the meat section. This part of the menu also includes the most original use of a chicken wing I am yet to see – Chicken Wing with Parfait, Crispy Tortilla and Quince Chutney. The crispy chicken wing is balanced out by the smooth parfait, crunchy tortilla chip and sweet chutney. It is a mix of textures and flavours not often experienced and it shouldn’t be missed. The rest of the offerings at 4Fourteen live up to Fassnidge’s reputation and the White Chocolate Sandwich on the pastry menu is a particular treat. RG
4Fourteen, 414 Bourke St, Surry Hills
Other Restaurants in Surry Hills here
If you enjoyed this review you may also wish to check out our articles on Sydney’s Best Baked Eggs and Sydney’s Best Pie; or our lists of the Top 5 Coffees in Sydney and Top 5 Pulled Pork Sandwiches in Sydney